This is for the previous post on Angela’s Wingback Chair Slipcover.
Thanks for the comments! I’m pretty happy about the results fo this project. It is not a “beginner’s project” for sure, and there was many a time I wondered what I had got myself into, but I was pleasantly surprised at the results.
Yes, it is a slipcover, and no it doesn’t really require a pattern. Each chair is different. A typical wingback chair requires 5 yards and an extra couple yards for the ottoman. I got 8 to be safe.
The two biggest keys to getting and keeping it in place are the zippers in the back, and the seat cushion.
Cut peices that are slightly bigger than each section (lets say an extra 4″ wide and tall. The putting off and removal of the slipcover is made easier by two zippers running from the top down to the top of the skirt, and placed just inside the back corners.
Make sure you mark the matching points, especially on the bulb and the arm wrap, with the marker, as you will need to dissassemble and reassemble to put the piping it.
All of the following work will be done with the wrong side of the fabric facing out. As each section is sewn together (arm, etc) I do turn them right side out to check the fit, then flip them back wrong side out to continue working.Lay the peices on the chair with the wrong side facing out and tuck it into the various crevices. Pin the fabric to the chair to hold it in place make it easier.
Using a sewing dissapearing ink marker (or crayola washables), draw lines on the meeting fabrics where an appropriate stitchline should be. Wherever a crease is, it’s good if the fabric “tucks” in about a 1/2″ to an inch. This helps alleviate stress. From your drawn line, drawn another one a 1/2″ away. This will later become your cutline.
I don’t reccomend cutting the excess away yet as the actual fitting may need more tweeking than you anticipate.
For this chair, I did the wings first, and they were actually easy as the inner wing simply had to be pleated in four places to match up with the outer flat wing.
Each arm is done in 3 peices (the outer side, over the arm, and the small bulbous front. The peice the wraps over the arm pleats into the bulbous section.
Back Front and Deck:
Once I had those fitted and sewn as best as I could, I worked on the front of the back, the deck (seat area), and the bottom front. The are all flat peices and the easiest to deal with.
Now to assemble the arms and back front, deck, and front edge. One of the biggest issues will be seam intersection. Often, you can just simply sew across a bunch of intersecting seams. You have to sew up to them, backstitch to secure, then restart you seam on the other side of the seams. This will keep all the seam allowances free and prevent puckering. If you end up with puckering near intersecting seams, just check for that.
A Glimpse of the Finished Product:
If you want to, now’s a good time to turn it all right side out and have a good look as it will look finished from the front. Check the fit and seam intersection for any issue and adjust the pattern. You WILL end up doing this a few times….LOL, but it is worth it!!!!
Fitting the back is much easier if you lay the chair down on its front. I chose to put a zipper either side of the back, as I found it made it much easier to get on and off.
A #4 coil zipper works well and isn’t too heavy or light. To insert the zipper, simply press over the 5/8″ seam allowance, and topstich in place. It will end at the bottom of the main body of the slipcover. You could also choose to do a lapped zipper to hide it better, but seams meeting at the zipper center might be less bulky. I may do a lapped seam on Lowell’s chair with the lap facing into the back, not the outside edges.
With the almost finished skirt on the chair wrong side out, tucked in properly and the cusion in place, use a straight edge to draw a line parallel to the floor, a 1/2″ lower than where you want the skirt to sit. This is your line to place the piping and skirt. You could cut the section off below that line, but I find it helps the skir to hang right.
Leaving about 1 1/2″ poking out, pin your piping in place matching your seam allowance with the drawnline you just cut. The seam allowance will be pointing down. The main piping runs from one back corner, around the side, across the front, and around the other side. The back skirt and piping is attached seperately from the rest of the skirt.
For the hems, I made 2 1/2″ hems on the bottom, and 1/2″ hems on the sides. The skirt will be in four sections that but against each other on each corner. To hide the legs, I added 8 to 10″ wide finished inset pieces (same hems as the rest of the skirt) under the main skirt and in each corner. That is viewed in the last picture.
I hope this challenges you to revive some of your old furniture that just needs a new cover!